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80 Whip ?'s (Read 1837 times)
JeepGuy
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Show the link to this post 80 Whip ?'s
10/14/12 at 1:45pm
 
just picked up a '80 whip anything i should look for before i try to run it? it started on some gas in the carb (fuel line broken off tank) i noticed the track suspension doesnt work at all, where do i start with that? thua looks in good shape for the year, no idea on mileage as it has no gauges. Also how hard is it to put electric start on this?
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Earl
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Reply #1 - 10/14/12 at 2:14pm
 
For starters, I would do is clean up the entire fuel system. Clean out the tank, new fuel lines, filter. Clean the carbs up and install new gaskets. Make sure there's a good spark at the plugs. Spray a little wd-40 or similar product in each cylinder to free up the rings.
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JeepGuy
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Reply #2 - 10/14/12 at 4:38pm
 
well i did pretty much what you suggested since i posted execpt the carb flange. im gonna try to find one now. but she fired right up. ill post a pic when i get home. thanks
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restomajic
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Reply #3 - 10/15/12 at 4:46am
 
Does it still have the original carb and air box? They are a matched set and running the engine without an airbox leans out the engine. Check the rubber ring hidden inside the carb mounting flange. An air leak there can be a big problem unless you have a pile of new pistons around.

Electric start is possible but rounding up the correct parts is getting harder. It also requires removing the PTO seal and replacing it with the electric start version. Wiring needs changes also.
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JeepGuy
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Reply #4 - 10/15/12 at 8:24am
 
it does have the airbox and the thing with the holes that goes in the top of it. there is a rubber ring on the carb but i think it needs replaced because i can spin the carb a bit when everything is together, im having a hard time finding a replacement, can i just put some rtv on everything and make sure its tight?? also the headlight doesnt work, the bulb looks good (no broken filaments) and it looks brand new, any guess on where to start looking to find whats wrong??

i thought the elctric start would be easier since i saw it had a flywheel with teeth on it and the key has a "start" position, oh well looks like pulling for me this winter
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Reply #5 - 10/15/12 at 10:58am
 
i was borwsing around ebay and saw a lighting coil, think this is what could be bad on mine? anyway to test it ?
and heres a pic of it.
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restomajic
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Reply #6 - 10/16/12 at 5:06am
 
If it has the clutch side ring gear, I would guess the sled is already set up and wired for electric start, so the tough part is done.

I have worked on many a Scorpion sled where the carb mounting ring was gooped up with silicone. While it may work for awhile, the silicone will deteriorate eventually. If you try it, I would only put silicone on the round sides of the ring and add a thick homemade paper flange gasket. You also should make sure that the ring is installed correctly in the first place. If you look carefully you will see that the tabs need to line up with the grooves, and if they don't, the ring is probably turned around the wrong way.
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JeepGuy
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Reply #7 - 10/16/12 at 6:34am
 
ill check that today thanks
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Reply #8 - 10/17/12 at 5:13pm
 
you guys know if theres a way to test that lighting coil to see if thats why my lights dont work?
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Reply #9 - 11/04/12 at 6:47am
 
got the lights working, im not sure what i did to fix it since i did a few things then tried it. was tracing the wires and unplugged all the plugs and made sure they were tight also pulled the key switch to test and it was full of water, put everything back together and it worked. AND now it looks like we might get snow this week!!!!
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Reply #10 - 11/30/12 at 9:26pm
 
Unless you have already done it, I would strongly recommend leak checking the motor before you run it much.  The Cuyuna's are highly sensitive to air leaks and will put a hole in the PTO side piston to remind you should you forget.

I always recommend everyone re-seal and re-time these motors before running them.  Also these motors like octane.  Non-Ethanol premium is the minimum, we run 100 LL av gas mixed 50/50 with non ethanol premium and that works well.
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Reply #11 - 12/01/12 at 9:17am
 
if you saw my other post im having a problem with it running without putting the choke on and off. think i may have a bad crank seal? and if so how horrible of a job is it to change them? We dont have non-ethanol gas around here but i do have access to av-gas and whatever octane late model dirt track cars run.
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Reply #12 - 12/02/12 at 12:40am
 
Just saw that post and what the other poster said was pretty much spot on.  The first thing I would do is clean the carb.  Most likely a pilot jet or maybe main jet plugged.  You definitely want to fix that.

If it is a stock whip, it should have a Walbro WF carb on it.  I'd pull the bowl and make sure everything is clean in there.  These have the fuel pump stack on the top of the carb.  Normally I'd recommend taking that apart and cleaning it to, but there are a lot of little parts in there and it isn't for the faint of heart.  Clean the jets in the bottom first and see if it runs.

It is possible it is a seal, as that would lean it out too, but normally they will still idle ok unless the seal is really blown out.  Only accurate way to test the seal is to pressure test the thing.  

http://www.ultralightnews.com/cuyuna/index.htm  Starting with section 28, will show you how to build a simple tester.

Clean the jets in the carb and see if it will stay running.  If it does, what the other poster said are all things to make sure are good.

Intake insulators and the rubber insulator that holds the carb to the intake are two important ones.  If you need more help, just let me know and I'll do what I can to get you pointed in the right direction.

if the Av gas you can get is 100 LL I recommend that .  You won't need the octane the late models run as the probably run something around 110 and that is overkill.  If you have to use something with ethanol, Use premium and mix in some Seafoam at 1 oz per gallon.  

The biggest issue with ethanol is it traps moisture in time.  The Seafoam will help with that as well as help preserver the gas.
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Reply #13 - 12/06/12 at 6:37am
 
thanks for the help. Can i use the ethanol treatment that i use in my boat motor? i plan on ripping the carb apart this week, ill post up what i find
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scorp11
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Reply #14 - 12/16/12 at 11:07pm
 
JeepGuy wrote on 12/06/12 at 6:37am:
thanks for the help. Can i use the ethanol treatment that i use in my boat motor? i plan on ripping the carb apart this week, ill post up what i find


I guess I don't know what ethanol treatment you are using and what it is does.  The only additive I use is Seafoam.  Some others may be able to give you better advice on what to run with ethanol.
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Reply #15 - 12/25/12 at 2:20am
 
Could you post a picture of the rubber ring on the carb you are talking about? I have an identical whip that I put a yamaha motor in & don't need the original scorpion carb parts, so I would sell you the ring your looking for if I have it.
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Reply #16 - 10/17/13 at 6:16am
 
Figure id update this as winter is rolling around again (not that i need snow to ride my whip) anyway theres no update i never pulled the carb apart again, we had a weak winter (i only out 150miles on my modern sled) but we broke out the relics last night so hopefully i get to my carb issue. ive been thinking about just ditching this csrb setup and getting a mikuni and external fuel pump, anyone do this?
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scorp11
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Reply #17 - 10/17/13 at 10:16pm
 
for an 80 Whip, I'd use a 34mm Mic.  You nee the carb, fuel pump,  carb boot, a throttle cable, a choke cable, and I think you will need a different throttle block.  The throttle block of a 79 Sting or a 79-81 TK would work.   The carb adapter bolts on the walbro style carbs have bolts that are bigger than the carb boots for the Mikuni carbs.   You would need an intake off a 79-81 Sting or TK or you'll have to ream out the holes on the carb boot a little bit.

Below is one I used a Mikuni on.  



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Reply #18 - 10/19/13 at 8:55am
 
Im going to try clean the the carb again, this time ill poke something through the hole to make sure there clean.
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